Punjabi Dress Biography
Source:- Google.com.pk
Fashion and clothing have ostensibly been, and still are, the exclusive domain of women. Fashion and haute couture are synonymous, at least in Pakistan, with women. In the Western world, though, men did not spend all that much on clothing till the December of 2001, who unlike their counterparts in Pakistan, were very much fashion savvy. Even in the 16th century men were very conscious of what they wore. Clothes even then were a statement, not necessarily a fashion statement, but a statement nevertheless. The aristocratic class distinguished itself from the common class through their clothes, shoes, hairstyles, and mannerism.
Good tailoring anywhere in the world is characterised by strongly tapered sides and minimal shoulder, whereas often rack suits are padded to reduce labour. More casual suits are characterized by less construction and tailoring, much like the sack suit is a loose American style.
There are 4 ways to make suits. Ready made and altered "sizes" or pre cut shapes; a convenience that often is expressed over time with wrinkles from poor shaping, leading to distortion; The made to measure that uses measurements, not shaping, to achieve things like style, lengths and horizontal measurements; The custom, bespoke or tailoring-designed suit that has interim half-made fittings and is cut from an actual personal pattern. The acid test of authentic tailoring standards is the wrinkle that comes from poor tailoring. Rumples can be pressed out. for interim fittings, "Rock Of Eye"[clarification needed], drawing and cutting inaccuracies are overcome by the fitting.
Weddings performed during and immediately following the Middle Ages were often more than just a union between two people. They could be a union between two families, two businesses or even two countries. Many weddings were more a matter of politics than love, particularly among the nobility and the higher social classes. Brides were therefore expected to dress in a manner that cast their families in the most favorable light and befitted their social status, for they were not representing only themselves during the ceremony. Brides from wealthy families often wore rich colors and exclusive fabrics.
JJ Valaya is some times referred to as the 'Monarch of Indian Fashion'. His splendid collection of hand embroideries and exquisite bridal trousseau are a rage in the fashion world globally. His effort to create timeless attires, with dollops of contemporary classicism clinging onto it, has a fresh look and looks distinct from all the other designer wears. JJ Valaya is also regarded as the trend setter of the fashion fraternity. Though his roots are dipped to the past, he infuses with it the spanking new styles. His label that was established almost three decades earlier still has strong grip of the market and excels in wedding attires and evening wears, for both men and women.
Early Life
Ruled by the planet Saturn, according to his date of birth, JJ Valaya comes from the Desert of India - Jodhpur in Rajasthan. Born in an army family, he was brought up in various cities of India, along with his two elder brothers. His creative skills are apparent from the fact that he remained the best artist and calligraphist in school for five years at a stretch. He did his graduation in the commerce stream from Chandigarh College
After graduation, Valaya worked as a chartered accountant. However, this did not continue for a long time, as after 18 months he put his wings to fly and followed his desire of becoming a fashion designer. In 1989, he got admission in NIFT, Delhi. He graduated two years later, after winning various awards that included The Prix de Incitation in Paris, The Thapar-Dupont Medal, The Elyxa award and the KLM-NIFT Trophy.
Career and Success
JJ Valaya was the first designer to host a solo fashion show in India. He was also the first Indian designer to showcase his collection along with prominent International Designer Todd Oldham. Hand in hand with brother, TJ Singh's entrepreneurial abilities, he launched his brand "JJ Valaya" in 1991. His brand consisted of couture line of attire, which gained great accolades from the fashion fraternity. This was followed by "Valaya Home" in 1996 and a prêt label "Studio Valaya" in 1999.
In September 2006, House of Valaya entered into a licensing agreement with Genesis Color Private Ltd to design and manufacture its diffusion label "Valaya Quantum". Valaya's novelty and his brother's entrepreneurial capabilities have made the House of Valaya a pioneer in the Indian fashion Industry. He is a founder member on the Board of Governors of the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) and the Official Brand Ambassador for Swarovski, India.
Brand and Clientele
House of Valaya is one of India's most respected fashion houses. It not only caters to fashion lovers, but also provides a whole lot of luxury products, such as furniture, tapestries, stunning fabrics and home furnishings, haute couture and footwear, apart from cuisine. JJ Valaya has several successful solo fashion shows in his kitty, including the ones in New York, London, Paris, Dubai, Singapore, Hong Kong and Johannesburg as well as in most major Indian cities. He also made an entry into Bollywood, with the film Yaadien. Valaya also has a long list of clients, but would not name them giving them total privacy.
Pakistani men, on the other hand, have been less conscious of their clothes until the media blitz. It was something which men till recently did not take an active interest in. Men throughout time have worn basically the same traditional outfit – the awami suit or the shalwar-kameez as it is popularly known. Gone are the days of being patriotic!
Shalwar-Kameez is a complete dress, like a trouser-shirt combination. Shalwar is a pair of thin cotton trousers, baggy but tapered at the ankles. It has a draw-string at the waist acting as a belt; and a long tunic like shirt down to the knees, which is called Kameez. Nowadays men, too, like the women wear the Shalwar-Kameez in a variety of tasteful colors and designs, making it trendy and in vogue.
Designer Rashid Ali Khan says, “The basic ensemble changed from province to province. In Punjab it is the kurta-shalwar that is dominant, while in Karachi it is kurta-pajama, and in NWFP and Balochistan, it is shalwar Kameez.”
The feudal landlords had theirs embroidered and well-starched while the ordinary man just donned the outfit, even if not properly ironed. He only dared to wear a starched awami suit or even an embroidered one on happy occasions of Eid or his wedding.
The Punjabi natives mostly sport unstitched clothes called Lungis or Dhotis. Lungis or Dhotis are skirt like nether garments, which are wrapped and tucked around waist. It is worn with the Kameez in formal settings, and with a short waistcoat vest-like shirt in informal gatherings. Pathan men also wear sleeveless embroidered vests over the Shalwar-Kameez. In addition, they wear caps of various shapes and designs; the most common being the Pukul Hat which is a flat round wool cap. The Balochis wear Turbans which have the clothes tied in such a way that symbolize their tribal identity. In Sindh highly decorative caps are common. Hats and caps vary in cut and shape, as well as embroidery stitches and patterns, according to the tribe or peoples of the particular area. Their wearers may thus be immediately identified as to their ethnic origin, economic standing and social status.
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